May 23, 2023 Zagreb is the capital city of Croatia and the largest city in the country. It sits on the Sava River with Slovenia as its neighbor. Over one million people call this city home. The majority of its citizens are Croats which constitute 93% of the city's population. Other ethnic groups that call this place home are Serbs, Bosniaks, Albanians, Monetenegrons, Macedonians, and Romani. When it was part of Yugoslavia, Zagreb was the second largest city.
Zagreb Bronze Model Some factoids that are interesting: The cravat (or tie) was named after the Croats scarves that the military wore around their necks in the Thirty Years' War in the 17th century, and the ball-point pen was developed here from an invention by Slavojub Eduard Penkala.
************ The bus station to the Hostel Centar is about a 30-minute walk. The good thing is I have my GPS on my phone and thank goodness for it. The challenge is that sometimes it gets Wi-Fi and other times not. In order to access the internet, it is a must. If not, you may be walking in circles. The great thing is that once you arrive into the City Center you can find a free Wi-Fi connection. YEAH! My hostel is around the corner from the cathedral. It is tucked inside a building which makes it challenging to locate. The blessing is that hostel placed a picture of the building on the mobile app which made a difference with me locating it. YEAH!
Staircase to Hostel I notified the hostel in advance that I would be taking an overnight bus from Prishtina, Kosovo. This worked to my advantage because they put me into a private room for two nights at no additional cost. I would then move into the bunk room the following day. This would save me from upsetting someone's sleep, and they could sell the bunk space to someone else -- win-win. The hostel is on the top floor of a 200+ year old building. Being in the "attic" makes for some interesting architectural features, exposed eaves, and crazy room angles. The bathroom also makes for some wild configurations with showers being super tiny as well as bathrooms. It is fun to travel like this but living like this would be a different thing, especially since there are no closets but small wardrobes. Also, the kitchen is a wild shape and tucked under the roof. Somehow, they make it work which creates a very unique traveling experience just be mindful of your head or it will get bumped.
Private Room in Hostel
Hostel Bathroom
Hostel Shower
Hostel Bunkroom
Costs in Euro: $1.80 two pastries $6.45 sandwich, beer, chocolate bar $142 seven nights - Hostel Centar, no breakfast, shared 4-bed bunkroom $4.16 beer and sandwich May 24, 2023
The December 2020 Petrinja earthquake hit the city hard - 6.4 magnitude. Even now, the churches remain closed, and the majority of museums are not open because of building infrastructure. The quake was even felt in Bosnia and Slovenia. Petrinja was hit the hardest with half of the town destroyed. (I never heard anything about in the US news... go figure.)
In Zagreb, you can see the after effects with bricks and plaster still missing from buildings. It does not take long to witness its force. The really old buildings show massive signs of cracks on the facade as well as missing architectural details. I am told it was blessing when Covid was in force because people were not in the street when it happened, or they would have been hit in the head by bricks and glass. While devasting, the city is rebuilding in full force. The 2020 quake has had an effect on my trip to Zagreb. I did not know the impact of the earthquake in the region, let alone even hear about it in the USA. This has put a spoiler on the museums and churches that I had intended to see. It is a damper I had not anticipated, and I think it is going to make for some interesting days ahead as I try to find things to see/do.
Cathedral
You can really see the effects of the quake with the scaffold on the cathedral. Rising many stories high, scaffolding covers the spires. The interior of the church is also being gutted and made structurally sound. being the most prominent building in the city, it is hard not to miss. I wonder when it will all be done?
Cathedral
Cathedral The Mirogoj Cemtery was also hard hit. The entire outer wall that surrounds the space is being made whole. While solid, fencing surrounds the perimeter to safeguard the space and also visitors who want to see the dearly departed. Some headstones and statuary were toppled, but the majority of the space fared well. The same is true for the Museum of Arts and Crafts. The entire building has been evacuated, the roof gone, and interior gutted. Once one of the crown jewels, the space is vacant and crumbling. The good news is the country is pouring millions of dollars into the space to resurrect it and all its glory. While I bummed that I will not witness the art, it's great to see a city in transition as it rebuilds. It also made my day to witness the LGBTQ+ flags hanging prominently on the facade scaffolding.
Museum of Arts and Crafts
Museum of Arts and Crafts
Museum of Arts and Crafts
Museum of Arts and Crafts ******************************************** Today was overcast with rain for the majority of the day. This made for a cool morning as I walked to the Mirogoj Cemetery. I could have taken the tram, but walking allows me to see things differently. Besides, it is a 45-minute walk and a direct trek from the hostel.
Mirogoj Cemetery The cemetery is regarded as one of the finest in Europe. I must admit, I was expecting more. Yes, the walls that surround the area are impressive and some of the grave markers there are lovely, but it did not mesmerize me or beg me to look further down the lanes. I was expecting more -- mausoleums, statues, iron work, etc. I have traveled extensively and have seen some amazing cemeteries -- Pere Lachaise, Recoleta, Monmatre, etc. The information online about Mirogoj is more hype than reality. All the same, I will explore it as I always do when I am in a new place. Finding one of the rare mausoleums in the area, I stepped up onto the porch and took a nap as I waited for the rain to subside. It was a full down pour, but a constant spit that made for an interesting cemetery experience. Overall, it was pleasant way to spend the day. Some might think takin a nap in a cemetery as peculiar, but feeling the cool marble on my back was calming and refreshing, especially since yesterday was so hot.
Mirogoj Cemetery - Sections are closed because of the Earthquake and the crumbling facade.
Mirogoj Cemetery
Mirogoj Cemetery
Costs in Euro:
$1.70 pizza slice
$1.46 two beers from market
FREE! Mirogoj Cemetery
May 25, 2023 I woke at 5:30 a.m. and went back to sleep for another hour. My room was quiet last night which is always a blessing for an excellent night's sleep. I had one bunkmate yesterday from Switzerland. They are trans and leaving in the morning for a flight back home. I got up and showered and walked over to the Dolac Market for pastries. I would spend the rest of the day wandering the city, admiring the architecture, and taking a nap on the city greenspace by the large fountain. While I would prefer seeing art works in a museum, I will have to settle for the art of the city on edifices and corners. Costs in Euro: $2.50 two pastries from Dolac Market $9 train ticket for May 29 to Ljubljana, Slovenia $2 veggie pizza slice
Doorway
Doorway
Doorway
Doorway
Doorway May 26, 2023 It breaks my heart to see so much of the cultural elements of the city closed. I had so wanted to see some new works of art. The city has been good to me architecturally, though it is lack luster in comparison. All the same, I can't be too down and out. It is nice to just relax and watch the day go by with no major agenda. It's a topsy turvy adventure of what street have I not been down to see what is in store for me.
One of those blessings is that right in front of my hostel I saw people erecting tents and chairs this morning. By this afternoon it was gang busters with a cultural festival celebrating Hungry. Waking from my afternoon nap to tunes of high stepping music, I leaned out my window and saw all the commotion. Why not join them?... and so I did -- music, dancing, food, etc. It was fun and festive. I loved it! I even was invited to dance with them and up I went.
Hungarian Cultural Festival
Hungarian Traditional Clothing Detail
Hungarian Traditional Clothing Detail
Hungarian Cultural Festival
Hungarian Cultural Festival
Hungarian Cultural Festival
Hungarian Cultural Festival
Hungarian Cultural Festival COSTS in Euro: $1.75 pizza $6.81 baguette, cheese, cherries, chocolate bar, 2 beers FREE Hungarian Cultural Festival
May 27, 2023 Founded in 1948, the Zagreb Puppet Theatre is the oldest group in the country. I saw information about it online, and I thought it would be fun to see a show. I had gone to a puppet theatre in Magadan, Russia years ago, and it was time to see another show in another country.
The box office opens on the weekend at 9 a.m. for a 11 a.m. curtain. I knew the majority of the seats were sold out from what I could tell on the website. I wanted to be sure I got one of the few remaining ones (the house sits over 200). I was the first one there, and for a little over $5 US, I got to sit on the 8th row, seat one. When asked if I was going to bring my children, I replied that I was a child at heart. The response got a chuckle and was told I would enjoy it. (I was the only one at the performance w/o children.) I was going to be able to see a revised adaption of Little Red Riding Hood. Now this one has a modern twist; instead of red cape, she wears a red beret. In this version, there are songs, the big bad wolf comes down from a TV-screen and even X-rays are used to extract the grandmother and her granddaughter from his belly. It is a sight to be seen. Now mind you, the story needs to be told in less than an hour because the room is full of little people who are squirming to get up. The show is done in Croatian, but since I knew the story ahead of time I could make-out the storyline. It was well done, and time was well filled. I would definitely come again if I were to visit in the future.
COSTS in Euro:
$4.70 Little Red Riding Hood - Zagreb Puppet Theatre
$6.04 two croissants, 2 beers, 2 boxes of cookies
$1.80 pizza slice
May 28, 2023 Laundry day is here. Tomorrow, I will take the train to Ljubljana, Slovenia. After being here in Zagreb for a week, it is time to prepare for my trip. I had scoped the laundry scene earlier in the week. After asking at the hostel if they did laundry, they gave me directions to one down the street several blocks away. When I was scouring the city for architectural finds the other day, I discovered another one by the train station. For roughly $7 Euro you could get wash and dry. When I sent to the one recommended by the hostel it was $11 Euro. I Googled another one close by and found it for $9 Euro - $5 Euro for 9 kg and $2 Euro for 15 minutes dry. Ridiculous prices! And so, I got up first thing and went to the laundry when they opened at 8 a.m., knowing that it being Sunday it might get swamped. The door was already open, so I exchanged my Euros for laundry coins. No sooner had I started my wash that a line began to form. Early bird got this worm. WINNING!
COSTS in Euro: $9 laundry - wash and dry $6.56 three beers, three croissants, sandwich, cookies
May 29, 2023
I am always amazed that trains in other part s of the world are excellent and fabulous compared to the United States. The USA rail is kaput! And, it's affordable here in Europe and other parts of the globe. Why can't the USA get its act together?...corporate greed and the unwillingness to put people first. For $9 Euro (the same price for laundry), I am off by train from Zagreb to Ljubljana, Slovenia. The journey will take a little over 2 hours. I will take the afternoon train arrive there by 3ish. While I have enjoyed Zagreb, it's time for a change. I hope to return again when the museums and churches are open to the public.
Ljubljana, Slovenia Ljubljana is the largest city in Slovenia and it is also the capital. When Yugoslavia was split apart, this became the capital in 1991. It became part of the EU in 2004. Over 5000,000+ people call the region home with 3000,000 approximately in the city center.
Ljubljana Cathedral with Dragon Bridge
The City's symbol is the dragon, and it is evident on the castle and the bridge as well as flag and coat of arms.
According to a Slavic myth, the slaying of a dragon releases the waters and ensures the fertility of the earth, and it is thought that the myth is tied to the marsh in the area. According to Greek legend, the Argonauts on their return home after having taken the Gloden Fleece found a large lake surrounded by a marsh between the present-day towns of Vrhnika and Ljubljana. The monster was struck down and evolved into the dragon that today is present in the city coat of arms and flag. Others say the dragon was adapted from St. George and its mythological slaying of the dragon. In the legend, the dragon represents the death of paganism and the rise of Christianity. Whatever the history, dragons are cool, and who wouldn't want that to be part of your city's symbol?
Angel Boutique Angel I am staying at Angel Boutique Angel, a short 20-minute walk from the train station. When I first got here, I got turned around from the station and had no idea where I was going. (Typical Greg Wilkins) I was able to find free Wi-Fi which was a godsend because it helped me navigate my way here. It's always a discerning feeling when I don't know up from down. Breathing easy, everything worked out all right.
Angel Boutique Angel
Angel Boutique Angel The hostel is tucked in a neighborhood and easy to pass by if you don't know what you are looking for. Fortunately, the owner sent me a picture of the building before I arrived (yeah internet). It has the hostel below with apartments above and a parking lot out back. The hostel is super clean with pod living, a simple kitchen, and super clean bathrooms. In fact, it is the best shower I have had in my travels thus far. There is free coffee at the parking lot that has everything from Irish coffee, cappuccino, etc. I am not a coffee drinker but will never pass up a free cup if it's offered. I had sent them a note weeks before my arrival and was able to reserve a bottom pod.
Angel Boutique Angel - pod with storage at the foot of the pod and storage in the back with plugs in the storage space as well as at the shelf with additional storage on the side by the light.
Angel Boutique Angel - kitchen
Angel Boutique Angel
Angel Boutique Angel
Angel Boutique Angel
Angel Boutique Angel
Angel Boutique Angel
Angel Boutique Angel
COSTS in Euro:
$13.60 ice cream bar, 2 packs of nuts, 2 beers, hummus, crackers, 2 croissants, pepperoni, cheese slices, chocolate box
$175.87 - 10 nights at Boutique Hostel Angel
May 30, 2023 Arriving to a new city/town, I try to get the lay of the land. The best way of doing this for me is get out and walk around, even if you get "lost". I also take pictures of anything that may catch my eye. I have found this to be helpful because should I get lost, sometimes they are clues to my return back to the correct path. think of them as electronic breadcrumbs. You never know where the journey may lead...only forward. If and when the spirit moves me, I stop. This could be a building, graffiti, a flower, a crack in the pavement, etc. If it speaks to me, I ponder and enjoy.
Office Building
Apartment Door
Utility Cover
Ljubljana is the same. There is never anything too bland for me to stop. The city has lots to see and do and getting into the streets is way to find the soul of the place.
For example, today as I was meandering about and got twisted around, I discovered a gymnasium and park. The building had great architectural lines and fit a certain historical period. The columns, carving, and balcony vibrated with excitement. At first, I didn't even know it was a gym until I investigated further.
Gymnasium
Gymnasium
Gymnasium
Gymnasium Across the park was a church with a lovely wrought iron fence. A man was there cleaning the front stoop. He greeted me and encouraged me to enter. And so, I did.
Church of the Heart of Jesus
Church of the Heart of Jesus
Church of the Heart of Jesus
I explore like this for a sense of adventure but also to get a feel for the neighborhood. Yes, I miss things here and there, but who couldn't? And with my pictures, conversations, and observations, they inch me closer to the city center. The city unfolds.
Now the one downer about being a hip place for tourists is that by a certain time in the morning, the center is filled with throngs. It's this part of travel that drives me bonkers. People piled upon themselves, gawking, peering, clicking pics of each other. It feels like the town's people are monkeys in cages all grasping for the almighty Euro to sustain them. It is here too that there is a spike in prices for food, beverage, and admittance prices into spaces. The pretty people sit in cafes drinking coffee, oohing and awing about what adventure they are off to next while forgetting the place they are currently in despite the nose on their face. And I wrestle with this, because I am part of this subset even while I painstakingly try not to be.
Ljubljana Castle The Ljubljana Castle reigns supreme like a king on the mountain peering down at the city below. I refrain from going. There is always another day to witness its history and grandeur. I instead focus my time on the lower elements of the old town -- churches, parks, museums. etc.
St. Nicholas Cathedral
The grand dame of the city center is the Cathedral, aka as St. Nicholas. Originally, Ljubljana Cathedral was a Gothic church. In the early 18th century, it was replaced by a Baroque building after it had burned down -- some say it was by the Turks.
St. Nicholas - door Out front in Pogačar Square, the large bronze doors are a sign on a post that tourists are not welcome because of mass. The doors were a gift to celebrate the 1250th anniversary of Christianity in the Slovenian territory and the visit of Pope John Paul II. The front door, now named the Slovene Door, bears a relief by with a depiction of Slovene history. The side door, named the Ljubljana Door, are portraits of 20th century Ljubljana bishops.
St. Nicholas
St. Nicholas
St. Nicholas
I decide I will not be a tourist and rather a person for prayer. I pull at the massive door, and it slowly opens. So many people have used the handle it is shiny and new because of all of the grabs. There is an entrance window to the right with holy artifacts being sold. I tuck my way into the back. Service has begun, and I am in awe of the ceiling as I peer upward. The fresco by Giuglio Quaglio is a beauty. The organ begins to play, the choir chants, and the people dutifully sit and wait for the priest to recite prayer and scripture. I sit through the entire service and communion before I quickly pass through the space taking pictures to record my experience.
St. Nicholas Cathedral
I walked one side of the old town to the next stopping by churches and museums to make a plan as to what I was going to see and do this week. One thing is for sure. I am going to save money on the first Sunday of the month because the many of the museums are free. I am going to plan to see the Modern Art Museum, Contemporary Art Museum, and the Slovenian Museum. Some of them are grouped very close to each other and the other grouping is close to my hostel.
Ljubljana Slovene National Theatre Opera and Ballet
Ljubljana Slovene National Theatre Opera and Ballet
Ljubljana Slovene National Theatre Opera and Ballet The Ljubljana Slovene National Theatre Opera and Ballet was founded in 1918. I came across it as I was hunting for churches. It is a classical structure with a modern addition in the back. The original opera house was built in 1892. I am told the ballet has approximately 50 dancers.
Saints Cyril and Methodius Church
Saints Cyril and Methodius Church Around the corner is the Modern Art Museum and the Saints Cyril and Methodius Church. The great thing on a hot day is you can pop into a church to cool off. No, they are not air conditioned, but they have thick walls and tall ceilings which creates great air flow. And so, I popped in for a refresher as well as to witness the Orthodox church.
Saints Cyril and Methodius Church
Built in Serbo-Byzantine Reivial style, the church has five domes with golden crosses at their top. It was built between 1932 to 1936 with frescoes in the interior by Serbian painters. The church foundation was blessed in 1932 and blessed again October 2005, the date of official opening of the church. At the blessing they installed the relics of Saint Athanasius, which were brought from the Vatican symbolizing the integration of one Christian unity (Orthodox and Catholic).
Saints Cyril and Methodius Church
COSTS in EURO: $2.53 croissant, beer, cookies
Zale Cemetery May 31, 2023 Zale is the largest and the central cemetery in the city and the country. Built in 1906 behind Holy Cross Church, the first burial was performed in the same year on May 3, when the priest Martin Malenšek was transferred there from the old Navje cemetery. Since then, the cemetery has grown and now has four distinct sections. It is recognized by UNESCO as a site of importance with over 2,000 prominent deceased laid to rest here.
Italian Gate to Buried Soldiers
During World War I, many of the fallen soldiers of all sides were buried in Žale. However, they were all Roman Catholics. All other faiths were buried in Navje. In 1923, authorities allowed Jews and Muslims to be buried in Zale too, but only on the exterior side of the cemetery wall. This practice does not appear to be happening now. I am making this assumption but don't know this for a fact. I was impressed though that there are other worships spaces now in the front of the cemetery to allow for mourning before bodies are laid to rest for different religious faiths.
In 1931 the cemetery expanded. The Italian military cemetery was arranged there, and many Italian soldiers were reburied from the A part. At the same year the Jewish part of the cemetery was arranged too, however it was separated from the main part by a fence. In 1939 the Ossuary of World War I Victims was built where 5,258 of the victims of this war as well as of the associated conflicts were later buried.
Holocaust Memorial
Holocaust Memorial
Holocaust Memorial
Holocaust Memorial
Holocaust Memorial
Holocaust Memorial
Holocaust Memorial
Holocaust Memorial I was particularly struck by several observations:
* There is a special cemetery for Catholic nuns and clergy.
* There are markers that date in the early 1800s but unsure when they arrived here as the cemetery was not yet operational.
* The Holocaust is prominently commemorated here with a massive bronze sculpture that is several stories tall and stone blocks commemorating those who were murdered by the Nazis. There are two other markers - one a fountain with naked children (boys) playing/dancing, and another with faces looking up toward the heavens. Seeing these spaces throughout prominent European cemeteries grips at my soul of our collective, horrific past as to how humanity has treated others.
Zale Cemetery
Zale Cemetery
Zale Cemetery
Zale Cemetery ******************************************
Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana Castle stands tall as the leading figure in the city. Flags unfurled, she reigns supreme. Originally a medieval fortress, it is estimated was built in the 11th century and rebuilt in the 12th century. It acquired its present outline with an almost complete overhaul in the 15th century. The majority of the buildings date to the 16th and 17th centuries. Initially a defense structure and since the first half of the 14th century, the seat of lords. Today, it is tourist trap with restaurants, a mix match of spaces that intertwine, a gallery, and a puppet museum. The castle is depicted prominently on the city's coat of arms, along with its famous dragon on top. The best part about the space is the views overlooking the city.
Ljubljana Castle - Chapel
Ljubljana Castle - Chapel
Ljubljana Castle - Chapel
Ljubljana Castle - Chapel Puppet Museum which opened in 2015 is part of the castle ticket. It documents the history of puppetry in the nation from days of old to television and the present. There are interactive elements which is fun for children and adults.
Puppet Museum Th theatre resides in the lower part of the city. It was founded in 1948 and still performs. The theatre itself shares its space with other groups.
Puppet Museum The reason why I sent to the castle was for dinner at Strelec. My reservation was for 5 p.m. I decided to walk up to the castle versus taking the funicular to save money. Yes, it was slightly rainy, but the cool temperatures made for a nice journey with some lovely views along the way tucked between houses and the forest.
Puppet Museum
Puppet Museum
Puppet Museum At Ljubljana Castle, the most visited tourist spot in Slovenia, in the Archer's Tower, which stands right next to the entrance to the castle, a high culinary experience is created by an exceptional chef, Chef Igor Jagodic. The round tower (Archer's Tower), the origins of which date back to the 15th century, took on its present appearance after the restoration in the 1950s when architect Boris Kobe and academic painter Marija Pregelj who decorated the interior of the tower with its now recognizable features, graffiti wall murals. In a wide ribbon, the paintings embrace the tower’s interior and show fragments of the stories of the Slovene folk tradition in framed scenes.
Strelec
I had made a reservation for the 9-course tasting menu. MENU: Amouse bouche with gold leaf
Bread, smoked butter
Asparagus - tarrad, fermented asparagus, hollandather sauce
Trout - citrus, coriander, macadamia, trout roe
Tatar - deer, lyso, goose pate, laundry or shiso leaves
Cauliflower - egg yolk, brown butter, breadcrumbs and truffles
Ričota - asparagus, aged cheese, apple cider vinegar, bacon
Onion - albumin cottage cheese, beer, Jamar cheese, yeast
Wild fish - brown butter, lemon, spring salads, Adriatic prawns
Beef - smoked bone marrow, currants, beetroot, polenta, beef cheeks
Savarin- rhubarb, raspberry, elderberry
Ysm, Chocolate, Bergamotka
Petit Fours
I washed it all down with CANA royal sparking water from the mountain region and a 15-year-old brandy called Zlatni Tok (made from plums with subtle vanilla and a touch of coffee. The brandy is spontaneously permeated with wax and smoke, ennobled by truffles and jasmine...amazing indeed! Only 500 bottles are made each year -- $250 Euro/bottle.)
Strelec - Wine
Strelec - Table Setting
Strelec - Table Setting
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
Strelec
The dining experience overall was good. I did have some feedback that I would think I should not have to give with a Michelin restaurant, Michelin Star symbol "The Plate" as well as a commendable total of 17 points awarded by the restaurant guide Gault-Millau for the third-year running should be on point in everything, not only the food. Here are some things that should have been better: * My reservation was for 5 p.m. I arrived exactly on time. They were not ready for me. The staff was not all there from what I gathered. I had an aperitif on the balcony overlooking the city as I waited for the team to get in place. I was seated by 5:25 p.m.
* My chair wobbled. It was not firmly planted on four legs. I ended up asking someone on the staff to exchange for it another one when I was on my fourth course.
* Going up the twisting staircase, there were catering tables visible to the eye in the corners of the room. Back of house, should be back of house.
* There was an electrical cable coming down the wall by the stairs. This should not be visible to guests.
COSTS in EUROS:
$8.40 Ljubljana Castle and puppetry museum
FREE Zale Cemetery
$151.50 Strelec Restaurant - 9 course meal with 2 drinks and tip
Slovene Ethnography Museum June 1, 2023 The Slovene Ethnography Museum is the country's foremost ethnological museum responsible for the keeping, preservation, study, and comprehension of collections of artifacts related to Slovenian and non-European material. The museum was founded in 1923, when it separated from the National Museum of Slovenia. Its earliest origins go back to the collections put together by the Provincial Museum established in 1821.
Slovene Ethnography Museum - Basket Detail
The permanent exhibition of over 3,000 items presents the treasury of Slovenia's and the world's ethnological heritage. It provides an insight into the purposes of exhibited artifacts and the ways our ancestors used them. What I like about the way the collection is exhibited is that it reflects Slovenia through artifacts from other peoples.
Slovene Ethnography Museum - Lace Detail
Slovene Ethnography Museum
Slovene Ethnography Museum - Lace Detail
Slovene Ethnography Museum
Slovene Ethnography Museum
Slovene Ethnography Museum
A particular exhibition I found intriguing was the SEM collections and folk art NSK of the IRWIN group. For the Slovenian nation, the sourcing was made through objects of traditional culture, and in the case of the citizens of the NSK state, the contemporary artistic production of the NSK.
The exhibition presented more than a hundred representative objects from the collection of Slovenian folk art, SEM, and contemporary global production of folk art NSK - graphics, photographs, posters, artifacts and videos of nineteen artists, citizens of NSK country at the time. The initiators of the creation of the NSK folk art collection are the IRWIN group and NSKSTATE.COM, maintained and collected by the IRWIN group.
Slovene Ethnography Museum - Neue Slowenische Kunst (NSK)
Neue Slowenische Kunst (NSK) is a political art collective that formed in Slovenia in 1984, when the Socialist Republic of Slovenia was part of Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. NSK's name was chosen to reflect the theme in its works of the complicated relationship Slovenes have had with Germans. The name of NSK's music wing, Laibach, is also the German name of the Slovene capital Ljubljana. The name created controversy because some felt it evoked memories of the Nazi annexation of Slovenia during WWII.
NSK art often draws on symbols from totalitarian and extreme nationalist movements. It has a very Nazi feel to it in its font, symbols, and dress. It's a play on a movement.
Since 1991, the NSK has claimed to be a sovereign state. As such, displays of its members' work are performed under the guise of an embassy, or a territory of the supposed state. Since 1994, the NSK has maintained consulates in several cities around the world. It has also issued passports and postage stamps. NSK passports are considered an art project. As such, they are not valid for travel. It has held art events in London, Brelin, New York City at the Museum of Modern Art and the Venice Biennale in 2017. This link will take you to the passport website in case others have an interest in participating -- https://passport.nsk/en/the_NSK_passport.
Neue Slowenische Kunst (NSK) - Virtual Embassy
Anybody can become a bearer of an NSK Passport and acquire the status of an NSK citizen. In its founding statements, the NSK State rejects the categories of (defined) territory and the principle of national borders and advocates the law of transnationality. The holder of an NSK Passport becomes a citizen of NSK. The passport holder’s data are recorded in the NSK citizenship register.
The passport is numbered and non-transferable; it is valid until cancelled, but it may be renewed. By signing the statement in the application form, the passport holder pledges to support the integrity of the NSK State to the best of his or her ability. The passport may not be used for criminal, ideological, religious, or political purposes, or for any purposes that are in conflict with the aims of NSK or that would jeopardize the reputation and good name of NSK. Citizenship ceases upon the expiration, return, or confiscation of the passport.
The NSK passport is a subversive document and of unique value. At NSK events and similar campaigns, the passport holder is invited to record the pertinent data and to present the passport for stamps, signatures, etc. In this respect, the applicability of the passport is unlimited and subject to the responsibility of the passport holder. I am thinking about getting one?
COSTS in EUROS: $3 Ethnography Museum with university ID, $6 w/o $7.82 two beers, sushi, hummus, bread, ice cream bar
June 2, 2023 Having walked the majority of the city, today I wandered around to explore parts that were further afield. In doing so, I met a group of local drunkards hanging out in the city park. They asked me for money in English, and I told them I only have pictures. As I showed them my camera, they waved me to come closer. I made sure I had an extra grip on it just in case. They laughed and asked if I would shoot their picture. I obliged. They offered me a beer from a backpack sitting on the park bench which I said I couldn't take, but they insisted. And then they offered my one Euro as a gift and memory of my time in Slovenia. They said Slovenians are hospitable people, and everyone is welcome. Again, I said I couldn't take it. They said it was important I do so they would be blessed by angels. I accepted the coin and beer and was on my way.
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Franciscan Church of the Annunciation The Franciscan Church of the Annunciation is a Franciscan church on Peseren Square up from the Triple Bridge. Its red color is symbolic of the Franciscan monastic order and stand proudly for all to see. What I like about this church is that it welcomes everyone to come inside. There is no admission fee to witness the beauty within. Built between 1646 and 1660, it replaced an older church on the same site. I pop in for a rest and to cool down from the heat of the day.
Franciscan Church of the Annunciation
Franciscan Church of the Annunciation
Franciscan Church of the Annunciation ************** Tivoli Park, the largest park in the capital, stands proudly beyond the city and a little bit away from the Museum of Modern Art and Saints Cyril and Methodius Church. I walk under the overpass and wander around. There are play spaces for children, a glass house, large pond, and the Cekin mansion. The house was built in 1720 and is now a museum - Museum of Contemporary History of Slovenia. The mansion sits on top of the ruins of a previous castle, and it was initially owned by the Jesuits. In the middle of the 19th century, it was renovated in the Neoclassical style, giving it its present appearance. In 1864, Austrian sculptors in a Moravian foundry designed four cast iron dogs that stand in front of the building. The sculptor that is attributed to their creation is Anton Dominik Fernkorn. Urban myth has it that because the dogs do not have tongues, the sculptor committed suicide by shooting himself due to this mistake. COSTS in EUROS: $1.24 croissant, chocolate $1.89 two beers, ice cream bar FREE Tivoli Park FREE Franciscan Church of the Annunciation
Metekova Park
Metekova Park June 3, 2023 I meander the city watching endlessly as the tourists walk by. I take my breakfast and eat it in Metekova. I share my raspberries with some houseless youth. Loathing rises up inside me when I see wannabe influencers taking selfies across a graffiti backdrop and then skip mindlessly away from the houseless. I give more of my fruit away.
COSTS in EUROS: $2.28 raspberries and croissant $1.40 white chocolate stuffed bread from central market June 4, 2023 The state museums are all free on the first Sunday of the month! to my surprise they were basically empty except for a few visitors and staff. In fact, in the vast majority of them, the guards outnumbered the guests. I was not expecting this.
Metelkova Museum of Contemporary Art is close my hostel. I had walked by it a couple of times in the week, and I did not know it was even there. The thing that gave it away was the large banner hanging from the side of the building when I got turned around in the in the neighborhood. Because it is so close, I decided this would be my first escapade for the day.
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park
Metekova Park The building sits in a park around the corner from Metelkova, a former Army barracks which is now a community space and has been squatted on since September 1993. It is a controversial area because the park was promised certain things only to find that politicians were going to do a bait and switch. The people protested and since have occupied the park. It is now a cultural space with music, theatre, and activism as well as a queer space and community space.
Museum of Contemporary Art
Museum of Contemporary Art The Museum of Contemporary Art is around the corner. It is three floors with galleries and meeting space. The collections rotate frequently. When I was there it showcased textile and mixed-media work, video, and a history of post-Fascism architecture. **********
National Gallery of Slovenia
The National Gallery of Slovenia was founded in 1918 after the dissolution of Austria-Hungary empire. Originally located in a palace, it has been in this present location since 1925. It is housed in a building built in 1896 and is prominent in its space sitting across from the National Theatre and Ballet. Their collection has items from across the centuries up to the impressionists. Paintings, sculpture are the dominant holdings. I must admit though, the older work for me becomes tedious to look at -- portrait after portrait, still life after still life, etc. It becomes tedious and glosses my eyes over. It becomes tiresome.
National Gallery of Slovenia
National Gallery of Slovenia - Ceiling
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Museum of Modern Art
Metelkova Museum of Contemporary Art and the Museum of Modern Art I think are confusing. The words modern and contemporary are interchangeable leaving viewers unsure where to go and what to see. For someone who is not local, it is even more confusing . Whatever the reason, I still made it there because I had walked by it on my first day I arrived to the city. I had decided I would go there when it was free to save me money.
Museum of Modern Art - Door
The building is adjacent from the National Gallery and down the street from the National Theatre. It is opposite Saints Cyril and Methodius Church. The building appears be from the art deco period, but I do not know this for sure. I am guessing because of the architectural lines. The lower level has a cafe, and the upper galleries are split with permanent collections and temporary works.
COSTS in Euro: FREE MSUM, $5.00 other times or $2.50 with university ID FREE National Gallery first Sunday of the month, $8 Euro other times FREE National Museum of Slovenia first Sunday of the month, $8 Euro other times
$2.60 cheeseburger and fries
Construction
Door
New Construction
Window Washers
Art Deco
City Center
Slovenian Festival
June 5, 2023
Rain greeted me today as I woke. It will rain all day according to the weather forecast. Not allowing a little precipitation from ruining a day, I had laundry to do. I wanted to be one of the first to get there because I heard it filled up quickly. It was about a 15-minute walk from the hostel. The owner sent me the address with GPS quadrants, and it got me there without any difficulties.
Fortunately for me, I was the second one there. I thought it opened at 8 a.m. only to find it opened at 6:00 a.m. No worries, I was able to get the cheaper washer for $5 Euro. It would take 40 minutes to finish and then 30 minutes for a dry at $4 Euro.
Four days earlier one of the hostel guests took out too many coins for the laundry, and she gifted me one coin. Each coin is one Euro, and you have to use the coins in exchange for Euro to do the wash.
COSTS in EUROS:
$9 laundry - $5 wash, $4 for 30-minute dry
$11.83 four beers, three croissants, salami, cheese, three nut bars, chocolate bar
June 6, 2023 The Cukrarna is a building that was once considered one of the most important industrial plants in Slovenia from the first half of the 19th century. It first operated as a sugar refinery. In 1835, the first steam engine in the territory of today's Slovenia was installed in the factory, and a period of relative stability followed. In the years between 1841 to 1849, the new owners increased the factory's capacities and caused the biggest boom in the history of the Ljubljana sugar industry. The Cukrarna is still considered a very unique monument to the industrial capitalism.
Cukrarna Gallery On August 25, 1858, a fire destroyed the factory almost entirely: its warehouse, equipment, and most of the sugar supply were completely destroyed. Everything except the woodshed and the barn burned down. The factory also lost the tall chimneys that gave it the character of a typical industrial facility. The factory building was partially reopened, but it never functioned as a sugar refinery again.
Cukrarna Gallery
Cukrarna Gallery
Cukrarna Gallery - lockers From the 1864 to 1866, the building hosted soldiers who used its premises as apartments; between 1870 and 1872, a tobacco factory operated on its premises, but another fire brought the building's life on halt again. It was then used as military barracks between the 1873 and 1918. In the meantime, some of the Ljubljana's residents who lost their homes in the devastating 1895 earthquake, which destroyed one-tenth of the city's buildings, lived in Cukrarna for a while as well.
Cukrarna Gallery - visiting artist space During WWII, the cellars of the factory served as shelters. After the building started to serve as a center for socially disadvantaged people and became a temporary home for construction company workers. In the past, this building also housed the premises of the Ljubljana Public Lighting company, and the Puppet Theater workshops. In the early 1990s, the Cukrarna was emptied with the intention of renovating and changing it into a shopping center, but the plans never materialized.
Cukrarna is also thought of as a birthplace of the Slovene literary modernism as many impoverished young Slovene modernist writers and poets found shelter in it at the turn of the 20th century. Today, after years of renovation, it is in my opinion the premier gallery and in Ljubljana and outshines the museums. The quality of the exhibitions is exquisite. I highly recommend all who come to visit the city to stop by the gallery if they love contemporary art.
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St. Peter's Parish Church
St. Peter's Parish Church is one of the oldest churches in Ljubljana and is the seat of Ljubljana–St. Peter parish. It is across the street from the University of Ljubjlana Medical Hospital and across the street from a park. Earlier in the week the church was closed because it is going through structural renovations. Today, the doors were open and had the opportunity to pop in to see the space. No one was there except me. It is away from the rest oof the central tourist chaos so I had the place to myself.
St. Peter's Parish Church
St. Peter's Parish Church
St. Peter's Parish Church
The original church was presumably built near the city walls at the turn of the 9th century. The church was encircled by a cemetery that was the main town cemetery until 1779, when it was abandoned. The current building was erected in a Baroque style between 1730 and 1733. After the 1895 earthquake, the church was renovated in a neo-baroque style. This renovation was strongly criticized for its supposed low quality, and was followed by another, done between 1938 and 1940. The façade was completely remodeled. The frescoes are original.
St. Peter's Parish Church
St. Peter's Parish Church
St. Peter's Parish Church
St. Peter's Parish Church
St. Peter's Parish Church
St. Peter's Parish Church
COSTS in EUROS: $2.31 beer and sandwich June 7, 2023 Train to Venice COSTS in EUROS: $324 six nights at Foresteria Valdese Venzia
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