Croatia and Slovenia 2023

May 23, 2023 Zagreb is the capital city of Croatia and the largest city in the country. It sits on the Sava River with Slovenia as its neighbor. Over one million people call this city home. The majority of its citizens are Croats which constitute 93% of the city's population. Other ethnic groups that call this place home are Serbs, Bosniaks, Albanians, Monetenegrons, Macedonians, and Romani. When it was part of Yugoslavia, Zagreb was the second largest city.

Zagreb Bronze Model Some factoids that are interesting: The cravat (or tie) was named after the Croats scarves that the military wore around their necks in the Thirty Years' War in the 17th century, and the ball-point pen was developed here from an invention by Slavojub Eduard Penkala.

************ Getting from the bus station to Hostel Centar is a bit of a trek—about a 30-minute walk—but that’s where the adventure begins. Thankfully, I’ve got my trusty phone GPS to guide me… when it decides to cooperate. The real test? Catching a solid Wi-Fi signal. Without it, you could easily find yourself wandering in circles like you're on a modern-day quest.

But here’s the plot twist—once you reach the City Center, you're saved by the magical appearance of free Wi-Fi. YEAH!

Now, finding the hostel is another little challenge—it’s cleverly tucked inside a building near the cathedral, almost like a secret hideout. The saving grace? The hostel’s app has a photo of the building front, which turned out to be my golden ticket. That picture made all the difference in the world.

Staircase to Hostel Before setting off, I gave the hostel a heads-up that I'd be rolling in on an overnight bus from Prishtina, Kosovo. That little bit of planning turned into a sweet travel win—they gave me a private room for two nights at no extra cost! After that, I’d shift into a bunk room. It worked out perfectly: I didn’t risk waking anyone up in the middle of the night, and they got to rebook the bunk for someone else. Total win-win.

The hostel itself is perched at the top of a building that's over 200 years old. Staying in what’s essentially the attic brings all kinds of quirky charm—exposed beams, slanted ceilings, and angles that defy geometry. The bathrooms? Let’s just say they’re a bit of a contortionist's dream—tiny showers and tight spaces. It’s all part of the fun when you’re on the road, though I’m not sure I could live like this full-time.

The kitchen adds to the whimsy—it’s wedged under the roof with a shape that probably baffles architects. Yet somehow, it all functions. Just remember: mind your head. One careless turn and the roof might greet your forehead with a not-so-subtle "hello." Still, it all adds up to a one-of-a-kind experience that makes travel feel like an adventure, not just a journey.

Private Room in Hostel

Hostel Bathroom

Hostel Shower

Hostel Bunkroom

Costs in Euro: $1.80 two pastries $6.45 sandwich, beer, chocolate bar $142 seven nights - Hostel Centar, no breakfast, shared 4-bed bunkroom $4.16 beer and sandwich May 24, 2023

The December 2020 Petrinja earthquake left a deep mark on this region—registering a powerful 6.4 magnitude. Even today, the scars are visible. Churches remain shuttered, and many museums are still closed due to damage to the buildings’ infrastructure. The quake’s force was so strong it was felt all the way in Bosnia and Slovenia, but Petrinja bore the brunt—half the town was destroyed. Strangely, I hadn’t heard a word about it in the U.S. news… go figure.

Here in Zagreb, the aftermath is impossible to miss. Bricks and plaster are still absent from facades, and buildings wear their wounds openly—cracks stretch across the walls, intricate details once adorning the architecture are now long gone. Locals have told me that, oddly enough, it was a blessing that COVID had emptied the streets when the quake struck. Otherwise, falling debris—glass, stone, and roof tiles—would’ve caused far more tragedy.

The city is pushing forward with an impressive energy to rebuild, but the quake has definitely changed the shape of my visit. I hadn’t realized how deeply the earthquake had impacted this area, and now that I’m here, it’s reshaping my plans. The museums and churches I had looked forward to exploring are, for the most part, inaccessible. It’s a bit of a damper, one I didn’t see coming, and I suspect it’ll lead to some unexpected detours and discoveries in the days ahead. Adventure often comes in unplanned ways—and this is clearly going to be one of those moments.

Cathedral

You can really see the effects of the quake with the scaffold on the cathedral. Rising many stories high, scaffolding covers the spires. The interior of the church is also being gutted and made structurally sound. being the most prominent building in the city, it is hard not to miss. I wonder when it will all be done?

Cathedral

Cathedral Mirogoj Cemetery didn’t escape the earthquake’s reach either. The grand outer wall that once embraced the grounds is now under careful reconstruction. It still stands strong, but fencing now wraps around the perimeter—part protection, part preservation—for both the space and the visitors coming to honor the dearly departed. Some headstones and statues were knocked over, but thankfully, most of the cemetery weathered the quake with dignity.

The Museum of Arts and Crafts tells a similar story—though more dramatic. The entire building is empty now, its roof gone, and the once-elegant interior reduced to a hollow shell. What was once a crown jewel of Zagreb's cultural scene now stands as a haunting monument to the quake’s power. But there’s hope rising from the rubble. The country is pouring millions into its restoration, determined to bring it back to its former glory. Sure, I’m bummed I won’t get to see the collection this time around—but witnessing a city mid-revival is its own kind of experience.

And then—just when I thought the day might end on a somber note—I looked up and saw the LGBTQ+ flags draped proudly across the scaffolding. A simple gesture, but it filled me with a quiet joy. Even in the midst of rebuilding, the city doesn’t forget to celebrate identity, visibility, and love. That moment alone made the detour worthwhile.

Museum of Arts and Crafts

Museum of Arts and Crafts

Museum of Arts and Crafts

Museum of Arts and Crafts ******************************************** Today was overcast with rain for the majority of the day. This made for a cool morning as I walked to the Mirogoj Cemetery. I could have taken the tram, but walking allows me to see things differently. Besides, it is a 45-minute walk and a direct trek from the hostel.

Mirogoj Cemetery Mirogoj Cemetery is often praised as one of the finest in Europe, but I have to admit—I was expecting more. The outer arcades and surrounding walls are undeniably impressive, and a few grave markers stood out as beautiful, even poetic. But overall, it didn’t cast that spell some cemeteries manage to weave. It didn’t pull me down winding lanes or beckon me to linger in quiet awe. I suppose I was hoping for more elaborate mausoleums, more dramatic statuary, more of that ironwork detail that gives other historic cemeteries their haunting charm.

Having wandered through places like Père Lachaise, Recoleta, and Montmartre, I’ve seen cemeteries that are practically outdoor museums—places bursting with story and art. By contrast, Mirogoj felt quieter, more reserved. The online descriptions might oversell it a bit. Still, I make it a point to explore cemeteries wherever I travel. Even if they don't dazzle, they always reveal something subtle and human.

At one point, I found one of the rare mausoleums and stepped up onto its little porch, taking shelter from the soft, steady rain. It wasn’t a full downpour—more like a persistent drizzle that gave the entire place a dreamy, damp mood. I lay down on the cool marble and took a brief nap, waiting for the rain to ease. Some might find napping in a cemetery a bit odd, but for me, it was surprisingly peaceful. The stone cooled my back, a welcome relief after yesterday’s heat, and for a little while, the world felt hushed and timeless.

Mirogoj Cemetery - Sections are closed because of the Earthquake and the crumbling facade.

Mirogoj Cemetery

Mirogoj Cemetery

Costs in Euro: $1.70 pizza slice $1.46 two beers from market FREE! Mirogoj Cemetery

May 25, 2023 I woke at 5:30 a.m. and went back to sleep for another hour. My room was quiet last night which is always a blessing for an excellent night's sleep. I had one bunkmate yesterday from Switzerland. They are trans and leaving in the morning for a flight back home. I got up and showered and walked over to the Dolac Market for pastries. I would spend the rest of the day wandering the city, admiring the architecture, and taking a nap on the city greenspace by the large fountain. While I would prefer seeing art works in a museum, I will have to settle for the art of the city on edifices and corners. Costs in Euro: $2.50 two pastries from Dolac Market $9 train ticket for May 29 to Ljubljana, Slovenia $2 veggie pizza slice

Doorway

Doorway

Doorway

Doorway

Doorway May 26, 2023 It breaks my heart to see so much of the cultural elements of the city closed. I had so wanted to see some new works of art. The city has been good to me architecturally, though it is lack luster in comparison. All the same, I can't be too down and out. It is nice to just relax and watch the day go by with no major agenda. It's a topsy turvy adventure of what street have I not been down to see what is in store for me.

One of those blessings is that right in front of my hostel I saw people erecting tents and chairs this morning. By this afternoon it was gang busters with a cultural festival celebrating Hungry. Waking from my afternoon nap to tunes of high stepping music, I leaned out my window and saw all the commotion. Why not join them?... and so I did -- music, dancing, food, etc. It was fun and festive. I loved it! I even was invited to dance with them and up I went.